Surfing and nose riding explained by Newtonian physicsについて

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Surfing and nose riding explained by Newtonian physics

The physics of surfing is an enigma.

In particular, it is unproven how a surfboard can grip the water with sufficient force to allow a surfer to stand at the tip of a surfboard while riding a wave, i.e., noseriding.

In short, according to Newtonian mechanics, the wave pushes the surfboard upwards.