The inevitable wipeout: a lesson learnedについて


The inevitable wipeout: a lesson learned

We were sitting by the buoy one day early in March, arrogantly surveying the scene.

I had not yet recovered from the interruption of my surfing activities during part of February, and so I was enjoying the interval between rides.

The waves that day were quite spasmodic, although when they did come, they were three or four feet tall and were crashing over rather heavily with a continuous line of convex, glass-like water.