Choosing a surfboard in the 1960sについて


Choosing a surfboard in the 1960s

In ancient Hawaii, the making of a surfboard required great skill and patience, for after the wood had been cut, it had to be thoroughly seasoned.

Since only stone implements were available to shape it, a year or more might elapse between felled tree and finished product.

A good board became a prized possession, which over the years was thought to acquire a spirit; this acquisition was aided by the incantations of the Kahunas – the high priests of surfing.