The history of surfing in Hawaiiについて

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The history of surfing in Hawaii

The call of the surf is a constant call that throbs deep in the bloodstream of all island races.

From prehistoric times, man has answered this call in a variety of ways, in canoes and coracles, in dinghies, in scows and whaleboats, but when at last the Pacific came to be explored, it was in the blue-green bays of the Islands of Hawaii that surfing – as we know it – was first observed.

There, the native Polynesians spun their wayward boards with bewildering skill as they hurtled down the faces of the breaking waves.