The beginner and the philosophy of surfingについて


The beginner and the philosophy of surfing

After I had established a regular program for my return to surfing, I found things entirely different from the few days spent with [German photographer] Hanns Hubmann.

For the first month, I was still pretty weak, but I was stimulated by the competition from Larry and George, who were getting better fast.

I learned again that paddling was half the battle and that to paddle properly, you had to have the board at just the right angle, or it will not glide.