A very special Oregon surf adventureについて


A very special Oregon surf adventure

It’s 45 °F, and I am at 45 degrees North, 70 miles east of the coast.

Daylight breaks before the sun is fully up. After coffee and oatmeal, I head down three stories to the garage to put the roof rack on the car.

In Honolulu, Hawaii, I walk the board to the beach as the sun gently rises behind Diamond Head. In SoCal, the board always fits in the rental car.