California Bodysurf Freakout: fighting fire with waterについて

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California Bodysurf Freakout: fighting fire with water

I don’t know who I’d be if my brother hadn’t left an unreturned copy of Viktor Frankl’s “Man’s Search for Meaning” laying around the house.

There are many lives within a life, each searching for meaning. Ryan Masters lives in a box canyon in the Santa Cruz Mountains.

He’s a writer, a bodysurfer, and had his first article published 15 years ago in Surfer’s Journal.